When we booked our around the world flights back in May of this year we spent a couple of weeks back and forth with the travel operator figuring out best dates and maximising our route. By the time we locked in our dates our opportunity to purchase the official Inca trail tickets had passed. Alternative options were the Salkantay or the Inca Jungle Trek. With the golden tickets gone we held off booking our trek until we arrived in Cusco so we weren’t limited to a time frame. After a couple of days of feeling under the weather we chose the easier option of the jungle trek (less trekking and no camping). Cusco has no shortage of tour operators all offering similar treks. We chose to book the three night, four day trip with Loki travel. There’s a slight variation in prices across tour operators and Loki is at the middle to top of that scale at $245 (American dollars) but their online reviews were excellent and the they had a day tour departing on our day of choice.
The first morning of our excursion we departed Cusco early, just us and our guide (our would be fellow travelers were absent due to sickness). You get driven for a couple of hours with a stop for breakfast along the way. The first morning of the tour involves a 45 km cycle. Mostly downhill you start at an elevation of 4200 m and whizz your way down to flat ground. We visited Peru in early October, just ahead of the rainy season (December) but the early signs of bad weather were starting to creep in. Not an avid cyclist I’m glad we gave it a go but the bitter cold coupled with rain is not something I’d rush back to do. I got back in the van for shelter for part of the descent but Caoimh braved the elements even keeping the tour guides entertained as he sang and danced on his bike to keep warm all while navigating the hairpin turns. The amazing views were just about worth cycling in sleet for! The afternoon’s optional activity was white water rafting but sadly because we were lacking a group we had to pass on this (hopefully we’ll get to give it a go elsewhere instead). That night we stayed in a jungle lodge just outside the town of Santa Maria. As the only occupants we had the place entirely to ourselves. After dinner we headed back to our basic room. It didn’t take long to determine that an early night was in order as all sorts of unwanted visitors started to crawl under the door frame!
Day two we awoke to a lavish breakfast for three. Despite the small group they were was a feast of pancakes, omelettes, breads, fruits and multiple juices to select from. We left early and headed off on our 16 km trek through the jungle. Unlike the previous day the sun was shining. The trek takes you up into the jungle weaving in an out of the trees with the valley and river far below. Part of the hike also encompasses some ancient Inca stairs. Classified as medium difficulty we found the pace fine as the trek includes multiple and frequent breaks with the opportunity to buy water from enterprising locals along the way. One of the more lengthy stops included an explanation of the agriculture and the various different crops of the region. After a lengthy lunch which included a siesta in some hammocks we continued on our way. In the afternoon the trek makes its way to the riverbed where you cross via a precarious looking suspension bridge (we didn’t know it at the time but this was not to be the only suspension bridge we’d encounter on this trek). Only a short distance later in a rather counter productive/ingenious manner you then need to re-cross the river again. This time you need to pay for the privilege in the form of a manned cable car. I use the term cable car generously as that’s how our guide termed it but in reality it was a pulley system that transported people in pairs over the river. Minutes later we found ourselves happily sinking into the hot springs located just outside of the town of Santa Teresa. The springs consisting of three large pools each of varying temperatures were a welcome relief after a long and dusty day of trekking through the jungle. We rounded off the evening with some well deserved cervazas (beer) and dinner with the rest of our newly acquired group (there is a shortened jungle trek where you can do 3 days and 2 nights instead and skip the second day of long hiking).
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On the morning of day three you can option to do zip lining. Having missed out on rafting we signed up. The zip lining was fun albeit terrifying. Comprising of 5 lines of increasing length and height they zig zag across the valley. The activity culminates in a walk across 450 m suspension bridge high above the ground. Less of a bridge and more of a ladder it had lost many a rung overtime. It was by far the scariest part of the morning, especially for my travel companion who is less than keen on heights! Needless to say we survived to tell the tale. After another delicious multi course lunch the afternoon’s activity was 10 km walk on mostly flat terrain. The trek on day three follows the train tracks and gave us our first glimpse of Machu Picchu high above before arriving at Aguas Calientas in the early evening. After an early dinner we set our alarms for the unfamiliar waking time of 03.50am.
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There’s two options to get to the top of Machu Picchu – hike the 1800 steps to the summit or avail of what must be the most profitable bus in the world ($12 each way for 20 minute journey). I optioned for the bus but Caoimh brisked the climb to the top in 45 minutes. Our group reconvened at the top and entered together for a 90 minute tour of the ruins. After this we bid goodbye to our guide Marco and we were free to explore at our own pace. The morning was crowded, with people peppering every available space. We took our time exploring each nook and corner of the heritage site and were rewarded in the early afternoon as the crowd thinned. One thing to note is that your ticket to Machu Picchu allows you just three entries for the day. Food must be consumed outside, toilets are also located outside and the one way system for the bottom part of the ruins forces you to exit and re-enter. Some strategic planning is involved if like us you intend to spend the full day absorbing the ancient site in its surreal geographical surroundings. We also made the short walk to the Inca Bridge and the longer trek to the Sun Gate both on the outer fringes of Machu Picchu. Reaching the Sun Gate we both felt envious of the those fortunate to do the proper Inca trail, as their first view of Machu Picchu is at dawn from the Sun Gate. Utterly exhausted it was time to call it a day just shy of closing time (site closes at 4 pm daily). Rather than wait the hour in a queue for the return bus we took the stairs all the way to the bottom. We had dinner with a lovely Dutch couple from our group before catching the train back in the direction of Cusco. All in all it was a really enjoyable few days taking in some amazing sights. Another one of the new seven wonders of the world off the list.
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